Books, Memories, and Essays . . .

Saturday, July 09, 2011

The Mountains

We went to the mountains again for July 4th, something that has become part of our summer routine. From Skyland in Shenandoah National Park, you can look down on the fireworks in the valley communities. Of course, it's not as spectacular as watching from close up. It's a different kind of experience, but fun in its own way and rather peaceful and distant, like looking down on the planet from a spaceship and watching the creatures doing something rather inexplicably strange and beautiful.

But that's only part of the reason I like going to the Mountains for the fourth of July. It's also a break from the heat, although not always. When the midsummer sun burns down on you, even at 3600 feet, it's still very warm. And yet, once you're out of the direct sunlight, the cool of the forest returns. And when the weather is cloudy or rainy, as it was part of the time this year, the temperatures bring an unseasonable chill that makes you glad you brought along a long-sleeved shirt or light jacket, just right for sitting on your cabin's patio or balcony and watching the weather and the wildlife, or reading a good book while the rain beats a steady rhythm on the roof.

For me no trip to the park is complete without some hiking in the woods. Over the years we've been on just about all of the easy and short hikes. My wife especially prefers the short easy hikes or the easy short hikes. Some short hikes can be fairly challenging, up steep rocky trails, or down steep rocky trails, after which you must then turn around and go back up. I've coaxed her to go on some of these to see spectacular views or impressive waterfalls. I've even convinced her to go on longer hikes with the promise of photo opportunities, like ruined cabins or abandoned farms or cemeteries. But any hike in the woods can present unanticipated moments of interest and startling encounters with nature.

This year just as we were getting ready to set out on an easy walk in the woods, a younger couple emerged from the trail and after consulting one another decided to warn us that they had encountered a mountain rattlesnake sunning itself on a tree stump near the trail's end. I thanked them for the warning and figured that would be the end of our hike when I glimpsed my wife's reaction. But I reassured her that we were now forewarned, and besides I doubted the snake would even still be there by the time we reached that part of the trail. Then I reminded her that the snakes and bears were always there anyway, something that strangely enough did not seem to reassure her as I hoped it would. She looked at me and asked, "Now, why are we doing this?"

I pretended she was joking and set off down the trail with her following cautiously behind, searching every tree stump for sunning rattlesnakes. But after a few hundred yards, she relaxed and we began our usual practice of pointing out interesting plants and animals, mostly squirrels and chipmunks, birds and butterflies, forest creatures even my wife enjoys seeing. We spent a little more than an hour walking on the Limberlost Trail, enjoying the cool of the forest, and finding no sign of rattlesnakes. When we got back to our car, J said she had actually enjoyed herself, although she didn't care for being sprayed with insect repellant and having to wear hiking boots.

With one hike done, we went on to Big Meadows Lodge and had a nice lunch, then took another very short hike, more of a short climb, up to Black Rock, near the Lodge, to look at some very impressive views of the Shenandoah Valley below. Then we returned to the car and after stopping one final time to look at the Big Meadow and pick up some snacks for the drive home, we returned to the Skyline Drive and drove off to Front Royal, where I promised J we would stop and look at the historic district and she could take some photographs. On the drive we did see a bear, and also a bobcat, our first sighting of one in the Park.

Later this summer we'll go to the beach for a few days, something J prefers to the mountains. She always reminds me that she comes from a long line of flatlanders, unlike my ancestors who were obviously mountain people. I don't see how this applies, since we both grew up in central Texas, but it is true that I enjoy the mountain terrain more than she does. She says she likes to be able to see for miles in all directions so she can see what's coming. It's probably a good thing we're planning to relocate to the Texas hill country. So far as J is concerned, hills are just fine; mountains not so much.

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